Getting off-grid in Northumberland
Waking up in complete solitude, surrounded by nature is what draws us to wild camping. There is something about pitching up in the wilderness that strips life back to its basics; all you have are the essentials for living and the promise of what adventures lie beyond. But unless you live in a country which endorses ‘right to roam’, strict access laws often mean opportunities for wild camping are few and far between. To date, wild camping for us has meant a long drive north over the border into Scotland where the activity is loosely permitted. In England however, those wanting to sleep under the stars are restricted to traditional campsites. Whilst perfectly enjoyable, it can be frustrating if, like us, you dream of one-off, tranquil locations without neighbours or noise.
Aiming to create more opportunities for wild camping in Northumberland, eco-tourism entrepreneur, Grace Fell, has launched an innovative concept that partners with local landowners to enable self-contained campervans the opportunity to stay in secluded locations, with full landowner permission. Since embarking on this project Grace has received special authority to offer eighteen exclusive sites across Northumberland, enabling her growing Wild With Consent community to escape the campsites and truly immerse in nature. From nature reserves, rivers and lakes, farms, forests and coasts - each campsite is a designated, secluded area of private land, but with no facilities. With only one campervan permitted to stay on each site per night, you are guaranteed the privacy, peace and tranquillity of the Northumbrian countryside without the hum of engines or chatter of strangers.
We set off on a late summer adventure with Northumberland Defender Hire to test run a select range of Wild With Consent sites that are only accessible with a four-wheel drive.
Our off-grid Northumberland adventure begins at 7 am in Newcastle Central Station. Sleepy-eyed, but with eager anticipation for the adventures that lie ahead, we stride across the station car park towards the historic Newcastle Castle. Waiting in the shadow of the imposing fortress is our transport, accommodation, equipment, and travel companion for our next three nights of wild camping - a 2014 Land Rover Defender Camper affectionately known as Hadrian. After a thorough tour of the vehicle, we sling our sleeping bags in the boot and before long we are on the road and escaping the city in search of solitude.
Leaving the A1 at Alnwick, we join the Northumberland 250 route which will be our guiding path for the days ahead. Our first stop is Barter Books, a remarkable second-hand bookshop situated in Alnwick’s old Victorian Railway station. Arriving just after opening time we have the magical book-laden isles completely to ourselves. After a hearty breakfast in the Waiting Rooms Cafe we are back on the road heading south west towards Rothbury. Cruising along the B6341 we pull in to marvel at the leaning tower of Edlingham Castle before continuing to Cragside House on the outskirts of Rothbury. We spend the remainder of the morning discovering the nooks and crannies of the Cragside Estate, before lacing up our boots for a hike up into the craggy Simonside Hills. After a 6-mile loop around Northumberland’s heather-clad fells, we are well worn out and decide to head towards the first camp location of our trip. Whilst still in reach of signal we access the what3words coordinates and written instructions for finding our pitch.
Hadrian - Defender 110 - Northumberland Defender Hire
At the end of a long dusty farm road we are greeted by the welcome sight of a stunningly isolated valley, satisfyingly backdropped by the range of hills we have just summited. Leaving the gravel track for more rugged terrain we begin to put the off-road capabilities of the Land Rover to the test. We cross several bumpy fields before joining the course of the River Wreigh as it meanders lazily through the picturesque farmland. After deliberating the wind direction, levelness of ground, and sunset prospects, we eventually decide on our camp spot for the evening. Within five minutes, the roof tent is popped, the awning is out and the fire pit is smoking. We enjoy a delicious makeshift meal before cosying up to the campfire to reflect on our adventure-filled day. Nestled under the Land Rover’s awning, sinking deeper and deeper into our camping chairs, there is no denying Hadrian already feels like home away from home. An early-evening breeze is coming in off the hills and the lowering blood-orange sun is setting the surrounding countryside aglow. As the last of the light fades, we climb the ladders to our cosy compartment atop the Land Rover for an early night.
We wake the next morning to the sound of birdsong, the gentle flow of the river, and sheep grazing close to the car. The distinctive sound of the tent unzipping instils in us that the day has really begun. We wave to the friendly farmer who tootles past on his quadbike in steady pursuit of his wandering flock. A carbohydrate rich breakfast and a wild wash leave us feeling energised, refreshed and primed for the adventures that lie ahead. Setting off on the next leg of our journey, it is clear we have slipped into a slower pace of existence and life is now unfolding much more meaningfully. Day two’s wild site is Scotchcoultard Farm near Hadrian’s Wall and we are already looking forward to getting there.
Words and photography by Amy Louise Roy
