Northumberland’s Mighty Strongholds
In times gone by Northumberland has been a perilous place. Lying close to the once fiercely contested Scottish Border has meant that the region has endured a troubled past. Faced with the unremitting threat of invading armies during the bloody border wars – Northumbrians sought to protect themselves by constructing huge fortresses across the county. Some of the most spectacular were built on or near the coast, perched on imposing volcanic mounds or commanding vital strategic positions. But, when peace prevailed and Britain’s east coast required more modern defences against new, foreign enemies, these defensive structures became surplus to requirement. Castles were hastily abandoned and allowed to succumb to the elements, gunpowder destroyed many, whilst others have since been restored to their magnificent former glory. From crumbling cliff top ruins, to an impenetrable Norman stronghold, to a fairy tale castle like no other in the world - we discover Northumberland’s ‘big 5’ mighty strongholds.
Alnwick Castle
Built: 1096 /// Owner: Ralph Percy, 12th Duke of Northumberland /// what3words: hairpin.removers.activity
On the outskirts of the cobbled market town of Alnwick lies one of Europe’s most impressive medieval castles. Originally a motte and bailey fortress, Alnwick was constructed in 1096 following the Norman Conquest of Britain. Its purpose was primarily to control and protect the border with Scotland, whilst also symbolising the status and power of the new Barons occupying these lands. As such, the castle guards a vital crossing point over the River Aln, which was once a major route to Scotland. It boasts numerous defences, including 2 metre thick curtain walls, a 7 metre deep moat, two baileys and impenetrable oak gates. Look out for miniature stone warriors guarding the parapets. From a distance these look life size and were intended to confuse attackers, giving the impression of a well-armed fortress.
Today the great Northern stronghold remains home to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, whose ancestors have lived here since 1309. With over one hundred and fifty rooms, Alnwick is the second largest inhabited castle in the United Kingdom, second only to Windsor. Most recently, Alnwick has become known around the world for starring as Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in the first two Harry Potter films.
Bamburgh Castle
Built: 547AD // Owner: The Armstrong Family // what3words: energetic.emotional.subway
Undoubtedly England’s finest coastal fortress occupies an enviable position on a great outcrop of basalt rock overlooking the North Sea. The castle as we see it today is predominantly Norman in design, rebuilt at a vast cost in the 1750s. However, evidence shows a fort has existed at Bamburgh since the first Anglo-Saxon King, Ida the Flamebearer, built a wooden stockade here in 547AD. At the time Northumbria was the largest and most powerful of England’s seven kingdoms. Lured by the mighty volcanic escarpment, he chose Bamburgh to serve as the Kingdom of Northumbria’s Royal Capital. A few centuries later the fortress was destroyed by murderous Viking invaders, and since then Kings, Earls, and Dukes have seized, pounded, and abandoned the formidable fortress in various states of ruin.
From Anglo Saxon Citadel, to an impenetrable Norman stronghold, to a cherished coastal home – today Bamburgh Castle is owned by the Armstrong family, who welcome the public to explore the castle’s fascinating story which dates back over 1400 years. Fourteen staterooms are filled with artefacts and heirlooms from the site’s history, while the magnificent King’s Hall is a masterpiece of Victorian design and features a host of artwork and stunning oak interiors. Found in the castle’s keep, the armoury presents a collection of battle-scarred weaponry from across the medieval and early modern periods, while in the Archaeology Museum lies a collection of Anglo-Saxon treasures – including a superb 7th century sword found here in 1960. Known as The Bamburgh Sword, it is likely to have been owned by a Saxon king.
Dunstanburgh Castle
Built: 1313 /// Owner: National Trust /// what3words: nozzles.coasting.kept
Dunstanburgh is one of the most dramatically situated castles in England, with almost sheer cliffs on the seaward side and crumbling, ruinous towers creating ragged silhouettes on the skyline. The sound of crashing waves and cries of resident seabirds further enhance the ominous atmosphere of this striking location. The castle was constructed by a powerful Baron, Thomas, Earl of Lancaster in 1313 during a period when Lancaster’s relationship with the crown had become openly hostile. The latest archaeological research indicates the castle was built on a far grander scale than originally recognised, perhaps more as a symbol of his opposition to the King than as a military stronghold. Unfortunately for the Earl, he failed to reach the safety of Dunstanburgh when his rebellion against the crown was defeated and he was captured and executed in 1322. Thereafter the castle passed to John of Gaunt, who strengthened Dunstanburgh’s defences against the Scots by converting the great twin-towered gatehouse into a keep. The castle was later the focus of fierce fighting during the Wars of the Roses – it was twice besieged and captured by Yorkist forces, subsequently falling into decay.
For a castle of which little remains, Dunstanburgh holds its own in the line of Northumberland’s mighty strongholds. Most of what you can see today dates from the original construction in 1313 and is renowned to be haunted by the ghost of Sir Guy the Seeker. The ruins can be reached by a splendid 1.3 mile walk from the nearby village of Craster or a slightly longer 2.5 mile walk from Low Newton-by-the-Sea.
Lindisfarne Castle
Built: 1550 // Owner: National Trust // what3words: tins.ownership.twisty
A journey across the causeway to The Holy Island of Lindisfarne rewards the inquisitive traveller with a fairy tale castle like no other in the world. Crowning a conical-shaped volcanic mound known as Beblowe Crag, at the southern tip of the island, Lindisfarne Castle seemingly rises from the depths of the North Sea. Though it may appear every inch the perfect medieval fortress, Lindisfarne is in fact a 20th century restoration of a Tudor fort built during the reign of Henry VIII. Unlike other Northumbrian strongholds, Lindisfarne Castle enjoyed a relatively uneventful history. Despite a formidable appearance - or maybe because of it – the castle saw conflict only once, when in 1715 when it was briefly seized by supporters of the Old Pretender, James Stuart during a Jacobite rebellion.
The castle may have been lost to antiquity if it were not for the efforts of Country Life magazine founder, Edward Hudson. From 1893, the castle was completely abandoned and rapidly falling into disrepair. Hudson acquired the castle with grand plans to create a comfortable residence away from the bustle of London life. In 1903 he commissioned noted architect Sir Edwards Lutyens to convert the fort into a mock castle, adapting the garrison quarters into a house, and the Tudor cellars into a cosy suite of living rooms. The result is unlike any other English castle; quirky, almost bizarre, and utterly magnificent. The castle was used as a residence for seventy years before being gifted to the Nation and is now in the care of The National Trust.
Warkworth Castle
Built: 12th Century // Owner: Ralph Percy, 12th Duke of Northumberland // what3words: dialects.together.basin
A colossal stronghold crowning a south-facing hilltop in a loop of the River Coquet. Though most of the internal structure of Warkworth lies in ruins, the castle still has a commanding presence at the head of a sleepy village of the same name. To this day, the date and circumstance of the castle’s foundation remain unclear. However, the first written record of Warkworth Castle occurs in a Royal Charter between 1157 and 1164. At the beginning of the 14th century, Warkworth was acquired by the powerful Percy family. As the Earls (and later Dukes) of Northumberland, they were among the greatest land owners in Northern England and the stronghold of Warkworth would become their favoured residence.
Today Warkworth is a place to let the imagination run wild. Entering the castle by crossing a wooden bridge over a moat – it is easy to visualise an attack taking place across the drawbridge. A variety of crumbling towers and sections of the curtain wall are riddled with stairwells and hidden tunnels enticing exploration. Warkworth’s keep is one of the best preserved of any in England and contains a maze-like system of stairs, passages, and cellars linking the Great Hall with a chapel, kitchens, store rooms and bed chambers. Standing in the hall you can sense the great medieval banquets which were once hosted within these walls.
