The Island of Tides
Twice a day, the tiny island of Lindisfarne, linked to the coast of Northumberland by a thin spit of sand, is cut off by the North Sea. Life on this isle revolves around the tides, just as it has done for more than a thousand years. It was this semi-permanent isolation that first attracted monks to Lindisfarne in the 7th century. Two in particular, Aidan and Cuthbert, left marks on the island so indelible that many people still only know it by the name bestowed by its mediaeval monastery: Holy Island. A part-time island with a rich history, Lindisfarne was known by the Romans as Insula Medicata, it was the birthplace of British Christianity and the renowned Lindisfarne Gospels. It was also the scene of a devastating Viking raid in 793 and the victim of abandonment after Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries. Lindisfarne may have reached its height of fame in the Dark Ages, but today the island is home to a thriving community with a bustling harbour, shops, eateries and inns. But, once the tide comes in and the island is cut-off from the mainland, a sense of calm and tranquillity descends over Lindisfarne, making it an eternal space for retreat and spiritual renewal.
The Causeway
Lindisfarne is linked to the mainland by a 3-mile causeway which is submerged by the tide roughly every 8 hours. At high tide, access by any means other than boat is blocked by 4 to 6 feet of seawater. Prior to the 1950s the only way to access the island was across the tidal mudflats, an ancient route known as the Pilgrims Way marked by vertical timber poles which indicate the safest route between the mainland and the island. The sight of the marker poles stretching across the sand is one of the most iconic views in Northumberland and still guides walkers to the island today. A handful of wooden refuge platforms also line the route in case of ill-judged journeys. Whilst walking the Pilgrims Way to reach the island remains a popular route, today the majority of visitors arrive by car. Before a causeway was built in 1954, only experienced taxi drivers would attempt to navigate the difficult crossing over the sands. However, as car ownership grew, the need for more reliable access to the island became apparent. The causeway originally spanned 1.5 miles of metalled road, but was later extended a further 1.5 miles onto the island. Maintaining the crossing involves some rather unusual challenges, including removing large amounts of seaweed that can be deposited on the causeway by severe storms. Despite plenty of warning signs positioned at either end of the causeway, every year tourists attempt to cross the causeway outside of the safe crossing times and end up requiring rescue by lifeboat.
The Village
Lindisfarne is home to around 160 permanent residents, most of whom live in the island’s only village, located in the southwest corner. While tourism is the main industry on Holy Island, there are many residents who earn their living through other means such as fishing, farming, arts, and crafts, along with a number of retirees who have chosen to settle here. The tidal nature of Lindisfarne profoundly shapes daily life for its inhabitants. Whether it’s shopping, arranging deliveries, attending secondary school, or receiving routine medical care, residents must carefully plan around the tides. The incoming tides also greatly impact businesses that serve the island’s visitors, as shops, cafés, and tours must adapt their hours and operations to the ever-changing schedule.
The village itself is a charming and picturesque settlement, rich in history and surrounded by natural beauty. Though small in size, it exudes a peaceful atmosphere with narrow lanes, traditional stone cottages, and a timeless quality that reflects the island’s monastic heritage. At its heart is Marygate, the main street, where visitors can find essential amenities like the post office and local shops, along with inviting cafés and eateries. A key landmark is the Lindisfarne Heritage Centre, which offers fascinating insights into the island’s history, including the creation of the Lindisfarne Gospels. Nearby, the tranquil Lindisfarne Gospels Garden provides a serene space for reflection, honouring the island’s spiritual significance. In the southern part of the village, the Village Cross serves as a historic focal point and meeting place, located near the popular Lindisfarne Mead Visitor Centre, where visitors can learn about and taste the island’s famous mead.
The Priory
Although a priory has existed on Holy Island since St. Aidan founded a monastery there in 635, the extensive ruins visible today are primarily dominated by the 12th-century priory, likely built on the same site as its Anglo-Saxon predecessor. Constructed around 1150, the priory has withstood nearly 900 years of wind, rain, and damage from the Reformation, yet enough of its structure and geometric patterns remain to allow appreciation of its layout, clearly exhibiting Norman architectural style. Originally, the west front of the priory was flanked by tall corner turrets, enhancing its imposing presence. In the mid-14th century, battlements and cross-shaped arrow loops were added as the entire priory was fortified in response to the outbreak of war with the Scots. At the heart of the building, the four arms converge beneath the renowned ‘rainbow arch,’ a rib from the high crossing vault that remarkably survived the collapse of the central tower in the late 18th century. At dusk, the naturally weathered sandstones take on deeper hues, echoing the rich colours of a red night sky.
St. Cuthbert
St. Aidan
Found among the ruins of Lindisfarne Priory stands a striking sculpture of St. Cuthbert, one of the most revered figures in early Christian history. Born in 634 AD, Cuthbert began his monastic journey at Melrose Abbey and would eventually become prior of Lindisfarne. Renowned for his profound spirituality, deep connection to nature, and miraculous deeds, he later chose a solitary life as a hermit on the Farne Islands. However, he was later called back to serve as Bishop of Lindisfarne in 685 AD. Cuthbert’s leadership and devotion transformed the island into a major centre of pilgrimage and learning. After his death in 687 AD, his burial at Lindisfarne transformed the island into a major pilgrimage site, with his shrine becoming one of the most important in medieval England. His life inspired the creation of the Lindisfarne Gospels, and his relics were carefully safeguarded during Viking raids, eventually resting in Durham Cathedral. Today, long distance walkers complete the 62-mile St Cuthbert’s Way walk from Melrose to the island, finishing by crossing the bay at low tide.
To the north of Lindisfarne Priory stands a weathered bronze statue of St. Aidan, the Irish monk and missionary who played a crucial role in spreading Christianity throughout Northumbria in the early 7th century. Sent from Iona in 635 AD at the request of King Oswald, Aidan established a monastery on Lindisfarne, which soon became a vibrant centre of learning, faith, and missionary activity. Under his leadership, Lindisfarne earned the title of the "Cradle of Christianity" in the region, with the religious community he founded flourishing and later giving rise to significant works such as the Lindisfarne Gospels. Today, St. Aidan is celebrated as the first bishop of Lindisfarne and remains a pivotal figure in the island’s rich spiritual heritage.
The Church
The Parish Church of St. Mary the Virgin serves as a vital community space for the residents of Holy Island, hosting regular services, weddings, and special events that underscore its significance as a centre of spiritual life on the island. As one of the oldest surviving buildings on Holy Island, it features elements from the Saxon period, including a magnificent Saxon arch. Over the centuries, the church has undergone several restorations, with significant renovations in the 19th century that have helped to preserve its architectural integrity. The church also boasts two remarkable 20th-century stained glass windows dedicated to St. Aidan and St. Cuthbert and an impressive elm sculpture by artist Fenwick Lawson, entitled The Journey. The sculpture depicts hooded monks departing from Lindisfarne in 875, carrying Cuthbert’s coffin as they began a seven-year journey of wandering.
The Harbour
As you stroll from the village towards the castle, Holy Island’s characterful harbour unfolds to your right. This working harbour is steeped in the island’s maritime history and continues to serve as a vital hub for local fishermen, who set out daily to catch crab and lobster for the island's eateries. At low tide, the area known as the Ouse is exposed, revealing extensive mudflats that provide mooring for local fishing vessels and pleasure boats. As the tide rises, the boats float back into the water, their colourful hulls creating a striking contrast against the blue expanse. The shoreline is lined with a collection of upturned herring boats repurposed as storage sheds, alongside various vessels that are pulled ashore for maintenance or seasonal storage. Behind the harbour stand the Herring Houses, once used for preparing and smoking fish.
The Fishing Huts
In the past, when old fishing boats became too battered and worn to safely sail the seas, fishermen in the North East of England devised a clever way of putting their redundant vessels to work. Rather than hauling the boats to a junkyard, they flipped them over to transform them into storage sheds for nets and other equipment. As the fishing industry has evolved, the places where you can find traditional huts have diminished. However, Lindisfarne is one of the few places where upturned fishing boats remain in abundance. There are two main sites on the island where you can see the Lindisfarne boat sheds; the harbour and the castle. There are sheds in various states of disrepair located in the harbour, close to the beach where they were once pulled ashore for the final time. These boats have been covered in tar for waterproofing, but most appear to be in a state of decay that often succumbs to huts and buildings positioned close to the sea. The curved, rugged aesthetic of the upturned vessels give the structures a great presence and each hut possesses a distinctive character. The castle boat sheds are owned by the National Trust and are located near the entrance to Lindisfarne castle. The original sheds in this location were installed by the Architect Sir Edwin Lutyens as part of his major refurbishment of the castle in the early 1900s. However, in October 2005 the sheds were set on fire in an arson attack. The nearest fire engine was on the mainland and couldn't reach the island until the tide had gone out. Two of the three sheds were burnt beyond repair, with the third being severely damaged. Thankfully the sheds were replaced the following year and exist in a much better condition than the harbour sheds.
The Wildlife
Holy Island is at the heart of the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve, a vast 3,500-hectare landscape of dunes, saltmarsh, and mudflats that hosts an extraordinary range of wildlife. Renowned as a birdwatcher's mecca, the reserve has over 300 species recorded and is internationally important for migrating birds. While the island’s birdlife offers the chance to spot something unexpected, there are also many regular visitors. In winter, the reserve becomes a sanctuary for large flocks of wading birds, ducks, and geese. Among the highlights are the rare light-bellied Brent Geese, with the reserve serving as Britain’s largest wintering site for this species, hosting around half of the world’s population. Oystercatchers and curlews are a common sight, grazing in the fields, while waders feed in the harbour when the tide recedes. Farmland areas are often alive with flocks of winter thrushes. Spring and summer bring nesting birds such as terns and auks to the reserve, while autumn is the prime season for migrating species, with the island often serving as a final resting point before birds cross the North Sea. Rare passerines regularly make appearances, especially in the village. On land, Roe Deer and rabbits are frequently seen, but the island’s star attraction is the grey seal. Hundreds can often be spotted lounging on the sandbanks near St Cuthbert’s Island, their eerie ‘singing’ creating a distinctive soundscape. At high tide, they can be seen bobbing close to the castle. In summer, the island comes alive with wildflowers and butterflies, adding bursts of colour to the landscape. The variety of wildlife on the reserve is best experienced by a self-guided nature walk which begins at Window on Wild Lindisfarne close to the harbour. The 5km circular route takes you through eight posts highlighting many different aspects of this vital habitat.
St. Cuthbert’s Isle
Gertrude Jekyll Garden
Also known as ‘Hobthrush’, St Cuthbert’s Island is connected to Lindisfarne by a narrow strip of sand and rocks which is only accessible by foot at low tide. It was here, within sight of Lindisfarne, that Cuthbert first withdrew to embrace the life of a hermit. Seeking solitude, Cuthbert retreated to the small islet in order to be closer to God, but also to be further away from the other monks in the priory. Cuthbert eventually felt that the tiny islet was not isolated enough, so he soon relocated to the more inaccessible Inner Farne to live out his austere existence. A few foundation stones of a later mediaeval chapel remain on St Cuthbert’s Isle, but any structure the saint constructed would have been wooden. The island can be accessed on foot from the main island during low tide, but do not use the safe crossing times for Holy Island to do so, as the islet is inaccessible for much longer than the causeway is open. The safest time to make the journey is at the point of low tide or in the hour before it.
In the shadow of Lindisfarne Castle is a tranquil walled garden created by renowned British garden designer, Gertrude Jekyll for her friend Edwin Lutyens, who at the time was transforming Lindisfarne Castle into a holiday home for Countrylife magazine founder, Edward Hudson. The garden was created in 1911, on the site of a vegetable patch which once provided the castle’s soldiers with food. Ablaze with summer colour and fragrance throughout July and August, Jekyll designed the garden to be at its very best when Edward Hudson would be enjoying his holiday home. In the summer months the garden is a riot of colour, with eight varieties of sweet pea filling the garden with a sweet scent and tall crimson hollyhock giving height to the garden. Look out for lavatera and chrysanthemum adorning the pathways. Hudson, who spent most of his time in London, sold the castle in 1920 and the garden later fell into disuse. In 2003 the garden was restored to Gertrude Jekyll’s original design by the National Trust which, because of the visitor numbers the roughly 7 square metre garden attracts, has extended the garden’s season by including spring bulbs and early-flowering plants.
The Castle
Perched atop the conical volcanic mound of Beblowe Crag at the southern tip of Holy Island, Lindisfarne Castle appears to rise from the depths of the North Sea. Despite its seemingly medieval facade, the castle is actually a 20th-century restoration of a Tudor fort originally built during the reign of Henry VIII. Its formidable appearance belies its relatively peaceful history, having seen conflict only once in 1715 when supporters of the Old Pretender, James Stuart, briefly seized it during a Jacobite rebellion. The castle might have been lost to time if not for Edward Hudson, the founder of Country Life magazine. By 1893, the castle had been abandoned and was rapidly deteriorating. Hudson purchased it with the vision of creating a serene retreat from the hustle and bustle of London. In 1903, he commissioned the renowned architect Sir Edwin Lutyens to transform the fort into a whimsical mock castle, converting the garrison quarters into a house and the Tudor cellars into a cosy suite of living rooms. The result is a unique and magnificent structure unlike any other English castle. Used as a residence for seventy years, Lindisfarne Castle was eventually gifted to the Nation and is now managed by The National Trust.
