The Ospreys of Kielder

I set off for Kielder just before dawn, the golden glow of the rising sun radiantly illuminating my journey west, through the quiet countryside of rural Tynedale. I pass through the quaint villages of Ridsdale, West Woodburn, then the historic market town of Bellingham, which stirs memories of my childhood in Haltwhistle, a nearby settlement with a similar sandstone charm. The North Tyne Valley will forever hold a special place in my heart. As I near my destination, the morning sunlight fades, and a veil of gloomy clouds rolls in—a fitting backdrop as Kielder’s dam comes into view through the trees. This man-made lake, a monumental feat of engineering, holds back an astounding 200 billion litres of water. It is said that if it were to fail, the River North Tyne would flood for miles on either side of its banks. Today, thankfully for everyone down stream, the dam appears as steadfast as ever. Sitting snug on the western border of the county, Kielder Water is an oasis, providing a sanctuary for species such as the red squirrel, goshawk, roe deer, and water vole. The landscape surrounding the reservoir is cloaked in the deep greens of sitka spruce, planted here as sustainable forestry, ensuring a well managed balance between nature and the timber industry. 

As I arrive at Shilling Pot car park, on the south side of the reservoir's 1-kilometre-long dam, I pause to take in the scene. A vast expanse of water stretches before me, bordered by the dense, tree-lined shoreline. My gaze is drawn to the imposing valve tower rising from the depths—a stark, industrial monolith dominating the landscape. Then, as if on cue, a majestic bird appears, immediately capturing my attention. I watch as it glides effortlessly in wide arcs over the water, tracing a path between the tower and where I stand. It’s an osprey—a breathtaking bird of prey, a large fish hawk, and the very reason for my journey to Kielder today. Its presence commands the early morning scene with cinematic grace. Framed by low mist, rolling hills, and layers of distant pines, the moment carries a moody, ethereal atmosphere, leaving me in awe.

With a wingspan exceeding five feet, the osprey's long, slender wings are beautifully accentuated by the contrast of bright white and earthy brown feathers. Its white head is bisected by a broad dark brown band that extends from the nape to its piercing golden eyes and razor-sharp hooked bill. Hovering in the air, wings beating steadily, the bird’s eager eyes scan the rain splashed water below, observing every detail.  In a sudden burst of movement, it dives, a flash of feathers slicing through the air. As it nears the surface, the osprey thrusts its legs forward, wings folding back, talons outstretched, and strikes the water with a forceful splash. Then, silence. For a moment, only the osprey’s head is visible above the water, appearing momentarily disoriented as its wide, golden eyes scan the surface. But with a sudden surge of power, the bird breaks free from the reservoir’s hold. Drenched but undeterred, it rises from the water, a massive rainbow trout clutched tightly in its talons, both locked firmly around its hard-earned prize. With reversible outer toes and specialised barbs on their talons, Osprey are specially adapted to grasp even the slimiest of wriggling fish. Gaining height and momentum, the bird glides over the dam wall, heading toward nearby pine trees, the trout dangling helplessly below—its fate now sealed. Standing alone on the shore, I can’t help but beam with delight. What a fantastic start to the day! I quickly hop back into my car and drive north over the dam wall toward Hawkhope car park, where I plan to set out into the forest in search of more ospreys.

Before we proceed, let me share some insights into this unique raptor. Unlike most other species of birds of prey, ospreys are specially adapted to feed almost exclusively on fish. They belong to their own genus, Pandionidae, and are commonly known as fish-hawks. In the UK, ospreys are classified as a Schedule One species, granting them the highest level of legal protection alongside other raptors such as the golden eagle, peregrine falcon, hen harrier, and goshawk.

These migratory birds grace us with their presence from March to September, returning to breed in the UK during the spring and summer months. Afterward, they embark on a remarkable journey, travelling approximately 5,000 miles south to spend the winter in warmer climates. Tracking studies reveal that they typically migrate to Western Africa—who can blame them? A winter on the east coast can be a chilly one. 

The appeal of birds of prey is undeniable; they are a favourite among both avid birdwatchers and the general public. Whether it's watching a kestrel hover by the side of a busy motorway, a sparrowhawk dart through your garden, or a peregrine stoop after teal in a coastal saltmarsh, these magnificent birds captivate us all. I’ve been fortunate to spend time observing ospreys in both Mexico and the Amazon rainforest, but witnessing one in action right here in my home county is truly special. This is especially significant considering that the fortunes of ospreys in Northumberland weren’t always as promising as they are today.

In the 1840s, ospreys became extinct as a breeding bird in England for over 150 years. The reasons for their decline included habitat loss and extensive persecution—issues that birds of prey still face around the world today. Osprey eggs were collected, the birds were shot for taxidermy, and many were targeted by a minority with their own motivations. Egg collecting was a widespread practice until relatively recently, driven by a growing cultural interest in science, the fashion for bird-related items, and the cataloguing of the natural world during the Victorian era. Yet, even in their absence, ospreys left a lasting legacy. They are mentioned in literature, with William Shakespeare referencing the bird in his 1609 play Coriolanus, underscoring their unique imprint on British natural history. He writes, “I think he'll be to Rome as is the osprey to the fish, who takes it by sovereignty of nature.”

Fast forward to the modern age, and wildlife and habitat conservation efforts are more prolific than ever. One notable initiative aimed at changing the fortunes of ospreys in Northumberland is the Kielder Osprey Project, a partnership between Kielder Water & Forest Park Development Trust, Forestry England, Northumberland Wildlife Trust, Northumbrian Water, and Calvert Kielder. The primary goal of this project is to support and monitor the osprey population. It serves as an excellent example of how focused conservation efforts, in collaboration with like-minded organisations, staff, and volunteers, can help restore and protect species that were once on the brink of extinction. Despite their absence as a breeding bird in the county, ospreys were recorded visiting the Kielder area on their migration north to breed in Scotland. They began naturally recolonising Scotland in the 1950s. In response to the growing Scottish population and the sighting of ospreys in the Kielder area, Forestry England began installing man-made nesting platforms on tall wooden poles throughout the forest to attract any passing birds. In 2008, the moment finally arrived: a pair of ospreys established a territory and attempted to breed at Kielder. While this was a victory, their nesting attempt unfortunately ended in failure. However, change was just around the corner. The following year, a pair successfully bred and astonishingly fledged three chicks, marking the first successful osprey breeding in Northumberland in 200 years—a monumental step forward in the right direction.

Over a decade and several breeding pairs later, in 2022, the 100th juvenile osprey fledged from Kielder, marking this project as an unequivocal triumph! This success has played a significant role in the resurgence of ospreys, not only in Northumberland but also across the wider Borders region and throughout the UK. Each year, just prior to fledging, juveniles are fitted with leg rings by trained bird ringers. The Kielder Osprey Project has tagged and tracked numerous ospreys to study their migration routes, yielding valuable insights into their survival challenges and the importance of international conservation efforts. Many of these ringed birds have become familiar faces in the area.

From Hawkhope, I step into the forest, where the morning stillness is punctuated by the high-pitched calls of young spotted flycatchers demanding food from their parents. These small, brown songbirds share a seasonal connection with the ospreys, spending their summers here before migrating south to spend the winter in Africa. Fortunately for us visitors to Kielder, spotted flycatchers have discerning tastes and feast on Northumberland’s finest midge, along with other flying invertebrates. Anyone familiar with Kielder knows that midges are abundant here during the summer months. As I follow the winding forest path, I ascend away from the water's edge and deeper into this woodland realm. A bench positioned at a break in the treeline reveals a tower standing proudly above the trees a few hundred metres ahead. This man-made nest platform, strategically elevated above the canopy, has successfully attracted nesting ospreys. My gaze quickly settles on several ospreys in the vicinity. Three juveniles are now airborne, periodically circling the nest and interacting with one another as they test their wings and adjust to life outside the comfort of their nest.

One of the parents keeps a watchful eye on the brood, comically perched atop a nest camera. Live cameras installed on several nesting platforms allow the public and conservation experts to stay updated on events unfolding at different nests around Kielder, providing a 24/7 glimpse into the birds' crucial breeding season. This innovative form of engagement lets us follow the journey of a young osprey as it transforms from a vulnerable, dinosaur-like chick into a majestic and efficient fish-hawk. Educational tools like this, along with public attractions such as the Osprey Ferry and the osprey viewpoint at the Tower Knowe Visitor Centre, help raise awareness about the significance of the project and the urgent need to conserve ospreys and their legacy for future generations.

Today, ospreys are as much a part of Kielder’s landscape as the midges and pine trees. Thanks to the conservation efforts of this vital partnership, the future looks brighter for ospreys in Northumberland. As we look ahead, I eagerly anticipate witnessing these magnificent birds continue to thrive, inspiring awe and joy in all who visit this remote corner of England. 

Words and photography by David Dinsley

As featured in This Is Northumberland 2025